Identifying authentic handloom textiles: A primer

1. Check the selvedge: Handloom textiles usually have an uneven selvedge. If the textile was pinned to the loom while weaving it may also have pinholes along the

 Notice how uneven the selvedge is. In some cases, it may even have pinholes along the edge. The holes are always equidistant.

2. Check the texture: Authentic handloom textiles are characterised by an uneven texture. You’ll often find pulled threads or small knots on

 A handloom textile will always have an uneven texture. The surface may even small knots. The end of the textile may have frayed edges. In case of a saree or dupatta they are often tied into tassels or knots.

3. Check the weft threads: Hold the textile against a source of light and check the distance between the weft threads. In case of a handloom textile this distance will never be the same. You can also examine the textile under a pick glass.

Notice the distance between the weft threads. In a handloom textile this distance will never be equal.

4. Turn it over: Extra weft textiles such as jamdani will always use a single thread to create one motif. The same thread will be curled back and forth to create the motif. In a fake, the thread along the edges of the motif will be cut using scissors.

This is the front of a Jamdani textile

The same textile is turned over; it can be noticed that the same thread is used for a single motif, it is curled back and forth until the motif is complete.This is the front of a Jamdani textile 

Resist dyed textiles such as Ikat or bandhani will always have the same pattern on both sides of the fabric.